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post #31 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 11:27 AM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

Thank goodness for youtube. I fixed the washer arm of my dishwasher for about $20 bucks vs. a $50 minimum repair call.


In youth it was a way I had, to do my best to please, And change, with every passing lad to suit his theories.
But now I know the things I know, and do the things I do; And if you do not like me so, To hell, my love, with you! --Dorothy Parker
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post #32 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 11:31 AM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

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Thank goodness for youtube. I fixed the washer arm of my dishwasher for about $20 bucks vs. a $50 minimum repair call.
My BIL has done some pretty complex auto repair work w/ nothing but YouTube to guide him.

YouTube is freaking awesome.

Virginia: "Why can't you kids leave well enough alone? Everything was fine until you started digging around."

Burt: "You sound like a Scooby Doo villain."
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post #33 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 12:25 PM
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DIY, Repair, advice thread

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Originally Posted by Cletus View Post
Dear god, no they're not the same.

Ok, they sorta are, but are not. Neutral and ground are connected in normal 2 and 3 phase house wiring, but only at the main panel. They are otherwise separated at all other points in the circuit. This is to keep equipment enclosures and things that should never have line voltage from being energized if there is a fault in the system.

Think of a motor with a hot and a neutral connection. Under normal operation, the motor drops the entire line voltage, and the neutral line is at the same voltage as ground (0). If the neutral is interrupted somewhere along the path from the motor to the panel, the neutral side may now not be at ground any longer - it could be at the same potential as the hot wire - no current, no voltage drop. If the motor casing was tied to the neutral wire, you could get shocked if you touched the motor. That's why there is a separate ground wire that gets tied to junction boxes, light fixtures, socket casings, etc. The ground wire can be accidentally cut and then your grounding of the equipment is lost, but the ground line is never tied to any voltage unless accidentally.

That is the point of a 3 wire plug - to provide a ground that is independent of the neutral wire.

I can do quite a bit but electricity is not something I'm well versed in.
Since it can kill I tend to stay away. Lol

Hook me up a new revolution, cause this one is a lie. Sat around laughing and watched the last one die.
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post #34 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 03:50 PM
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DIY, Repair, advice thread

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I can do quite a bit but electricity is not something I'm well versed in.
Since it can kill I tend to stay away. Lol

That was always my Dad's policy. He'd tackle just about anything, but if it required electrical work that went beyond swapping out a cover plate, he was making a phone call.

Virginia: "Why can't you kids leave well enough alone? Everything was fine until you started digging around."

Burt: "You sound like a Scooby Doo villain."
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post #35 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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DIY, Repair, advice thread

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That was always my Dad's policy. He'd tackle just about anything, but if it required electrical work that went beyond swapping out a cover plate, he was making a phone call.

Before I went to college, after leaving the military, I got a job with an electrical contractor. One of my first jobs I did, I went to the circuit breaker to turn off the power. My supervisor, laughed at me, "we only turn that off during major jobs, otherwise it's a waste of time". Yes you can do some jobs with live wires if you know what you are doing... Just don't be the return to ground, yikes.

Last edited by Ikaika; 08-26-2015 at 04:00 PM.
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post #36 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 05:38 PM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

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Before I went to college, after leaving the military, I got a job with an electrical contractor. One of my first jobs I did, I went to the circuit breaker to turn off the power. My supervisor, laughed at me, "we only turn that off during major jobs, otherwise it's a waste of time". Yes you can do some jobs with live wires if you know what you are doing... Just don't be the return to ground, yikes.
The upside is that it's a lesson that only has to be learned once.

Yep, it'll wake you up!

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way. -Mark Twain

For the lips of an adulteress drip honey and smoother than oil is her speech. -Proverbs 5:3
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post #37 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 05:47 PM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

Does anyone know how to get a 2004 Ford Focus to pass inspection when the check engine light is on and the car badly overheated. Maybe a warped head? Don't really know - in any case every idiot light lit up and the temp gauge slammed into the stop pin and now the check engine light is on. All I want to do is get it to pass inspection in NC I really don't care if the car is fu^cked. As long as it turns over.

Is there such thing as insanity among penguins? - Werner Herzog
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post #38 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 06:17 PM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

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Does anyone know how to get a 2004 Ford Focus to pass inspection when the check engine light is on and the car badly overheated. Maybe a warped head? Don't really know - in any case every idiot light lit up and the temp gauge slammed into the stop pin and now the check engine light is on. All I want to do is get it to pass inspection in NC I really don't care if the car is fu^cked. As long as it turns over.
Do they use OBD-II code readers for inspections there? If so, you have one hope -

Go to an AutoZone or whatever is the equivalent in your neighborhood. Have them clear the codes. You then have to drive the car around for "long enough" to get back to the ready state. If the code returns, you're screwed, you'll never pass emissions. If it doesn't, then you get it in ASAP to pass.

If the event was far in the past, as in say a month ago and the car has been driven regularly since, chances are you're screwed, since if the car was going to pass self-diagnostics, it would have already done so.

You can't clear the codes manually and pass inspection unless the car no longer sees the problem, but if it still sees the problem, it will never go into the ready state.
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post #39 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 07:22 PM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

thank you

Is there such thing as insanity among penguins? - Werner Herzog
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post #40 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 07:32 PM
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DIY, Repair, advice thread

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Originally Posted by Cletus View Post
Do they use OBD-II code readers for inspections there? If so, you have one hope -



Go to an AutoZone or whatever is the equivalent in your neighborhood. Have them clear the codes. You then have to drive the car around for "long enough" to get back to the ready state. If the code returns, you're screwed, you'll never pass emissions. If it doesn't, then you get it in ASAP to pass.



If the event was far in the past, as in say a month ago and the car has been driven regularly since, chances are you're screwed, since if the car was going to pass self-diagnostics, it would have already done so.



You can't clear the codes manually and pass inspection unless the car no longer sees the problem, but if it still sees the problem, it will never go into the ready state.

Doesn't a battery pull do the same thing? Take it out for about 30 min and the codes should clear..... For a time


Hook me up a new revolution, cause this one is a lie. Sat around laughing and watched the last one die.
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post #41 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 07:36 PM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

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Doesn't a battery pull do the same thing? Take it out for about 30 min and the codes should clear..... For a time
I'm not 100% sure if all codes are stored in volatile memory. I've always cleared them with my own port scanner.
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post #42 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 10:55 PM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

I have a nightmare story about a van that would NOT reset the codes and there is nothing that can be done about it...it leaves the van owner (a relative of mine who I was trying to help out) with a vehicle that will never have a cleared code, therefore can never pass DEQ. So I guess he will have to sell it to someone who doesn't live in a county that requires DEQ. It was a complete nightmare. Goddamn Ford.
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post #43 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 11:41 PM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

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I have a nightmare story about a van that would NOT reset the codes and there is nothing that can be done about it...it leaves the van owner (a relative of mine who I was trying to help out) with a vehicle that will never have a cleared code, therefore can never pass DEQ. So I guess he will have to sell it to someone who doesn't live in a county that requires DEQ. It was a complete nightmare. Goddamn Ford.
When the code won't go away, it means the problem hasn't gone away and the engine is out of compliance. Some things are checked as soon as the car is started, and will immediately throw a code as soon as detected. Broken oxygen sensors are like that.

The code will go away when you fix the underlying problem, as it should be. That's the whole point of having an emissions system.
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post #44 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-27-2015, 12:04 AM
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Re: DIY, Repair, advice thread

Three different dealerships (plus a couple of independent mechanics) could not get it to reset. You should see the weird instructions we were given on resetting it! It was incredible.

Here I found a copy of it online:

Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle

OBDII Monitor
Exercised
Drive Cycle Procedure


1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset. Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.


2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE.
Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.

3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7C (170 F).
Prep for Monitor Entry

4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8C (40 to 100 F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000. Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.
HEGO

5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes. Executes the HEGO monitor.
EVAP

6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85% Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8 (40 to 100F))
Catalyst

7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor.
EGR

8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor.
SEC AIR/CCM (Engine)

9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes. Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.
CCM (Trans)

10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
Misfire & Fuel Monitors

11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor.
Readiness Check

12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13. Determines if any monitor has not completed.
Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check

13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.
Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8 C (40 to 100 F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed.
Proceed to step 14. Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.
Evap Monitor "Bypass"

14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1.
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post #45 of 61 (permalink) Old 08-27-2015, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Three different dealerships (plus a couple of independent mechanics) could not get it to reset. You should see the weird instructions we were given on resetting it! It was incredible.



Here I found a copy of it online:



Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle



OBDII Monitor

Exercised

Drive Cycle Procedure





1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset.Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.





2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE.

Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.



3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7C (170 F).

Prep for Monitor Entry



4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8C (40 to 100 F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000.Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.

HEGO



5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes.Executes the HEGO monitor.

EVAP



6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8 (40 to 100F))

Catalyst



7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period.Executes the Catalyst Monitor.

EGR



8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times.Executes the EGR Monitor.

SEC AIR/CCM (Engine)



9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes.Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.

CCM (Trans)



10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times.Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.

Misfire & Fuel Monitors



11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times.Allows learning for the misfire monitor.

Readiness Check



12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13.Determines if any monitor has not completed.

Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check



13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.

Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8 C (40 to 100 F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed.

Proceed to step 14.Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.

Evap Monitor "Bypass"



14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1.

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