# DIY, Repair, advice thread



## Ikaika

I know some would suggest that this just be posted in the Social or Men's Club, but I know there are ladies on here and sometimes some interesting queries about home, computer, car, etc repairs. 

Would be nice maybe in the Off Topic section to add a sub forum dealing with DIY handyman/lady stuff.


----------



## Cletus

Might I suggest you DIY?


----------



## Ikaika

Cletus said:


> Might I suggest you DIY?



I guess I stepped into that one didn't I.


----------



## Cletus

Ikaika said:


> I guess I stepped into that one didn't I.


Brandine: Dang, Cletus, why'd you have to park by my parents?
Cletus: Now, honey, they's my parents, too.


----------



## SecondTime'Round

I LOVE this thread as a single woman owning my own home for the first time! And seriously, you were posting this thread as I was out in my garage, and then down in the basement, thinking to myself, "How exactly do you get a basement floor CLEAN? I should ask on TAM! But would I sound like an idiot??" 

So, how do you clean your basement floor? (I mean, besides a shop vac) Is there any particular method/cleaner that cleans a concrete floor? (It's not THAT dirty....the house is only 2.5 years old....but it's dirty and I'm about to organize it so I want to clean it).


----------



## Ikaika

Did you ever see the before and after of the major leak from my sons' second floor bathroom into our kitchen? Posted it at one time in Social. And, yes it was a sh!tty job literally. 

But, I was able to stop the leak, then rip out the ceiling, treat the beams with anti-mold agents. Let it dry out for one and half weeks then replaced the cutout ceiling dry wall, textured and painted. I live in a household of brokanics. I have better things to do, but this I must. Today, easy, change out- a bathroom vent fan.


----------



## Ikaika

SecondTime'Round said:


> I LOVE this thread as a single woman owning my own home for the first time! And seriously, you were posting this thread as I was out in my garage, and then down in the basement, thinking to myself, "How exactly do you get a basement floor CLEAN? I should ask on TAM! But would I sound like an idiot??"
> 
> So, how do you clean your basement floor? (I mean, besides a shop vac) Is there any particular method/cleaner that cleans a concrete floor? (It's not THAT dirty....the house is only 2.5 years old....but it's dirty and I'm about to organize it so I want to clean it).


So here in Hawai'i no one has basements... but given your description it is just a concrete floor... is the floor bare or is there some type of covering, like paint or some epoxy, etc. Also, I don't know anything about where you live but it would be wise to get a moisture test done. That is see how much moisture seeps up from the ground to the floor. There are sealants you can put down to reduce the moisture and then cleaning will be easier as dirt is always going to be hard to remove from a constantly damp surface.


----------



## SecondTime'Round

Ikaika said:


> So here in Hawai'i no one has basements... but given your description it is just a concrete floor... is the floor bare or is there some type of covering, like paint or some epoxy, etc. Also, I don't know anything about where you live but it would be wise to get a moisture test done. That is see how much moisture seeps up from the ground to the floor. There are sealants you can put down to reduce the moisture and then cleaning will be easier as dirt is always going to be hard to remove from a constantly damp surface.


Floor is bare, no paint or epoxy. There is some epoxy on the walls, though. 

There is no moisture in this basement. I moved from a VERY wet basement, and believe me, I'd be able to tell just based on the condition of the (clumpable) litter box! There's a space in the basement where the builders just did not clean up well after pouring the foundation and mud got in, but other than that, it's dry and in good condition. Just needs a good cleaning.


----------



## Ikaika

SecondTime'Round said:


> Floor is bare, no paint or epoxy. There is some epoxy on the walls, though.
> 
> 
> 
> There is no moisture in this basement. I moved from a VERY wet basement, and believe me, I'd be able to tell just based on the condition of the (clumpable) litter box! There's a space in the basement where the builders just did not clean up well after pouring the foundation and mud got in, but other than that, it's dry and in good condition. Just needs a good cleaning.



I think you are best to clean it like you would any hard floor. However, when you can, you should look into covering it over with something rather than leave it bare.


----------



## Anon Pink

@SecondTime'Round,

First you should sweep the floor with a stiff bristled broom. This will loosen all the dirt and dust, and it will send a good portion floating into the air-but that's the point.

Wait a few hours to let the dust settle, then vacuum.

Cleaning a basement floor which is usually poured concrete and pretty smooth is an exercise in futility because even though the concrete is smooth it is porous enough that the water soaks into the floor when mopping. You can still mop and you will get some additional dirt and dust, but you will quickly find that your mop bucket is black water and you will be emptying and refilling the mop bucket a lot, thus futile to go for "kitchen floor clean."

If you really really need to have a super clean basement floor, your best bet is to either lay down some type of flooring like linoleum, or paint the floor with epoxy paint. A basement floor painted with epoxy paint has a seal so dust and dirt will mop up easily.

We just shop vac the storage part basement floor.... once every five years or so. Everything is stored in boxes to keep the dust and soot out of the contents. The rest of the basement is finished off with carpeting.

So if you want to use the basement as storage, you should lay down a flooring or keep everything in boxes.


----------



## Ikaika

I'm hoping we can have a forum like this threads could be, like "Plumbing issue under the vanity" Ok no wise cracks. Speaking of cracks, that is what I am doing today, replacing the cracked screen on my wife's iPhone 6. It tumbles around with everything else she has in her purse. Mr. Got Fix It again.


----------



## Faithful Wife

Ikaika said:


> Did you ever see the before and after of the major leak from my sons' second floor bathroom into our kitchen? Posted it at one time in Social. And, yes it was a sh!tty job literally.
> 
> But, I was able to stop the leak, then rip out the ceiling, treat the beams with anti-mold agents. Let it dry out for one and half weeks then replaced the cutout ceiling dry wall, textured and painted. I live in a household of brokanics. I have better things to do, but this I must. Today, easy, change out- a bathroom vent fan.


Your home owners insurance would have covered this, why did you DIY?


----------



## Ikaika

Faithful Wife said:


> Your home owners insurance would have covered this, why did you DIY?



I get it done faster and to my specification


----------



## Faithful Wife

Ikaika said:


> I get it done faster and to my specification


But also at your own expense and effort.

Just seems odd to me. I work for a disaster restoration company. We do it all day, every day and the insurance company pays us to do it right. For example, we have to test all the materials and if there is asbestos, it gets abated correctly which is also all covered by the insurance claim. We get it done plenty fast (we have to, if we don't finish by certain timelines the adjuster will cut some of our payment).

Unless the job would have only been $1,000 or so, in that case it is sometimes not worth it to have us do it when the homeowners deductible is $500.


----------



## Ikaika

Faithful Wife said:


> But also at your own expense and effort.
> 
> 
> 
> Just seems odd to me. I work for a disaster restoration company. We do it all day, every day and the insurance company pays us to do it right. For example, we have to test all the materials and if there is asbestos, it gets abated correctly which is also all covered by the insurance claim. We get it done plenty fast (we have to, if we don't finish by certain timelines the adjuster will cut some of our payment).
> 
> 
> 
> Unless the job would have only been $1,000 or so, in that case it is sometimes not worth it to have us do it when the homeowners deductible is $500.



It was $485 in supplies and my labor.


----------



## joe kidd

Faithful Wife said:


> But also at your own expense and effort.
> 
> 
> 
> Just seems odd to me. I work for a disaster restoration company. We do it all day, every day and the insurance company pays us to do it right. For example, we have to test all the materials and if there is asbestos, it gets abated correctly which is also all covered by the insurance claim. We get it done plenty fast (we have to, if we don't finish by certain timelines the adjuster will cut some of our payment).
> 
> 
> 
> Unless the job would have only been $1,000 or so, in that case it is sometimes not worth it to have us do it when the homeowners deductible is $500.



Small world. Me too ! Lol


----------



## joe kidd

Ikaika said:


> I get it done faster and to my specification



When you say dry out do you mean dehumidification and proper air flow? 
Hope it wasn't open the ceiling and let nature do it .
Also how did you know it was dry? 
Did you use a meter?


----------



## Ikaika

joe kidd said:


> When you say dry out do you mean dehumidification and proper air flow?
> Hope it wasn't open the ceiling and let nature do it .
> Also how did you know it was dry?
> Did you use a meter?



Yep, my BIL is a carpenter, and borrowed some of his supplies. Sleeping at night with blowers going can be a challenge. A colleague of mine does environmental building test... He said it as dry as it will ever be in this environment, no AC and average humidity here is about 80%.


----------



## Faithful Wife

Being a long time homeowner, and my husband having construction background, plus working where I do....these things have given me a lot of knowledge about my home and its construction. I love having this knowledge. Before I had it, houses and how they are built was such a mystery to me that it seemed overwhelming to try to imagine doing major or even minor house projects. It was intimidating. Now? Nothing scares me. I've redone most of my house, a fair bit of it myself. If I have a fire or flood or electrical or plumbing issue, I know how to handle it or who to call. That gives me a lot of peace of mind.

Working for the disaster restoration company has also given me peace of mind, because now if a bigger problem like that occurs I know who to call and that they will take care of me. Before working there I did not understand how all of that worked and it also intimidated me. Like if I imagined having a fire it really freaked me out. Now that I understand the process that happens after a fire, I feel a lot better.

There are still many if not most projects that we do ourselves. But we know which parts of a job to hire out, and also have trusted people to call.


----------



## joe kidd

Ikaika said:


> Yep, my BIL is a carpenter, and borrowed some of his supplies. Sleeping at night with blowers going can be a challenge. A colleague of mine does environmental building test... He said it as dry as it will ever be in this environment, no AC and average humidity here is about 80%.



Lol. Sounds like an airport at night. Those fans make some noise


----------



## Ikaika

Back in 2007, we moved out of our house, hired a contractor to bring our kitchen down to floor. Moved the 240 line for the range. Moved the plumbing for the sink. Rebuilt from the ground up. New everything. One decision I'm happy about, single deep sink. We went with silestone (sp?) countertop. They also extended our master bedroom (2x bigger). We permitted the project, which they made us come up to standard on some items. We now have 11 smoke alarms wired in. You know what happens when the batteries start to give out. 

I rented a sprayer and repainted the entire interior. 

Finished it off with new floors.

Years prior my BIL and I tore down our bathrooms and rebuilt them as well. After 15 years, this place looks nothing like it did when we first moved in.


----------



## GusPolinski

Our dryer went out last weekend. Did some research, found the likely culprit, ordered a replacement part. Took less than 10 minutes to get the dryer back up and running once I had the part in hand.

It's not like I remodeled our kitchen or anything, but still...


----------



## MountainRunner

GusPolinski said:


> Our dryer went out last weekend. Did some research, found the likely culprit, ordered a replacement part. Took less than 10 minutes to get the dryer back up and running once I had the part in hand.
> 
> It's not like I remodeled our kitchen or anything, but still...


Ya know, not too terribly long ago, I read an article about how x-gens and millennials don't know how to repair stuff. They buy stuff, it breaks, they buy a new replacement.

Our LG dishwasher that we had was an uber silent dishwasher (you pay through the nose for the quiet ones) and when the sump assembly went bad, I wasn't about to shell out another $1,000 dollars when all I had to do was buy a new sump assembly for $120 dollars and invest a couple hours to replace it. Viola! 

Just did the 100K timing belt replacement on the Volvo S80 a few weeks back as well. Wanna know how much Volvo charges for that procedure? $1200 freaking dollars!!!

I bought the parts, along with a new water pump while I had the front of the engine torn out, for $160 dollars and a day and a half of my time. Like hell I'm gonna pay $1200 dollars to do something that I already know I can do, right?


----------



## GusPolinski

Word.

The dishwasher in our last house was a freaking marvel of engineering. Stainless inside and out. Silent and cleaned GREAT. Made by some Scandinavian company named Asko. Wish we'd replaced it w/ a $500 Whirlmore Aid before we moved so that we could've brought it w/ us.

Oh well...


----------



## joe kidd

Was looking at wi fi light switches. Sounds great but the whole " neutral wire required " thing has me baffled. 
Is that the same as the ground wire?


----------



## MountainRunner

joe kidd said:


> Was looking at wi fi light switches. Sounds great but the whole " neutral wire required " thing has me baffled.
> Is that the same as the ground wire?


Yes.


----------



## joe kidd

MountainRunner said:


> Yes.



Sweet. The Amazon echo has caught my eye and the Wemo switches work with it.


----------



## Ikaika

joe kidd said:


> Was looking at wi fi light switches. Sounds great but the whole " neutral wire required " thing has me baffled.
> Is that the same as the ground wire?



I'm glad MR could answer this... However administration, please see that a specific subforum for DYI, home, car etc repairs would be so helpful.


----------



## GusPolinski

First the dryer, now the washer.

Oh well, at least this turned out to be an easy fix...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reZnmpTPgew


----------



## Cletus

joe kidd said:


> Was looking at wi fi light switches. Sounds great but the whole " neutral wire required " thing has me baffled.
> Is that the same as the ground wire?


Dear god, no they're not the same. 

Ok, they sorta are, but are not. Neutral and ground are connected in normal 2 and 3 phase house wiring, but _only_ at the main panel. They are otherwise separated at all other points in the circuit. This is to keep equipment enclosures and things that should never have line voltage from being energized if there is a fault in the system. 

Think of a motor with a hot and a neutral connection. Under normal operation, the motor drops the entire line voltage, and the neutral line is at the same voltage as ground (0). If the neutral is interrupted somewhere along the path from the motor to the panel, the neutral side may now not be at ground any longer - it could be at the same potential as the hot wire - no current, no voltage drop. If the motor casing was tied to the neutral wire, you could get shocked if you touched the motor. That's why there is a separate ground wire that gets tied to junction boxes, light fixtures, socket casings, etc. The ground wire can be accidentally cut and then your grounding of the equipment is lost, but the ground line is never tied to any voltage unless accidentally.

That is the point of a 3 wire plug - to provide a ground that is independent of the neutral wire.


----------



## Pluto2

Thank goodness for youtube. I fixed the washer arm of my dishwasher for about $20 bucks vs. a $50 minimum repair call.


----------



## GusPolinski

Pluto2 said:


> Thank goodness for youtube. I fixed the washer arm of my dishwasher for about $20 bucks vs. a $50 minimum repair call.


My BIL has done some pretty complex auto repair work w/ nothing but YouTube to guide him.

YouTube is freaking awesome.


----------



## joe kidd

Cletus said:


> Dear god, no they're not the same.
> 
> Ok, they sorta are, but are not. Neutral and ground are connected in normal 2 and 3 phase house wiring, but _only_ at the main panel. They are otherwise separated at all other points in the circuit. This is to keep equipment enclosures and things that should never have line voltage from being energized if there is a fault in the system.
> 
> Think of a motor with a hot and a neutral connection. Under normal operation, the motor drops the entire line voltage, and the neutral line is at the same voltage as ground (0). If the neutral is interrupted somewhere along the path from the motor to the panel, the neutral side may now not be at ground any longer - it could be at the same potential as the hot wire - no current, no voltage drop. If the motor casing was tied to the neutral wire, you could get shocked if you touched the motor. That's why there is a separate ground wire that gets tied to junction boxes, light fixtures, socket casings, etc. The ground wire can be accidentally cut and then your grounding of the equipment is lost, but the ground line is never tied to any voltage unless accidentally.
> 
> That is the point of a 3 wire plug - to provide a ground that is independent of the neutral wire.



I can do quite a bit but electricity is not something I'm well versed in. 
Since it can kill I tend to stay away. Lol


----------



## GusPolinski

joe kidd said:


> I can do quite a bit but electricity is not something I'm well versed in.
> Since it can kill I tend to stay away. Lol



That was always my Dad's policy. He'd tackle just about anything, but if it required electrical work that went beyond swapping out a cover plate, he was making a phone call.


----------



## Ikaika

GusPolinski said:


> That was always my Dad's policy. He'd tackle just about anything, but if it required electrical work that went beyond swapping out a cover plate, he was making a phone call.



Before I went to college, after leaving the military, I got a job with an electrical contractor. One of my first jobs I did, I went to the circuit breaker to turn off the power. My supervisor, laughed at me, "we only turn that off during major jobs, otherwise it's a waste of time".  Yes you can do some jobs with live wires if you know what you are doing... Just don't be the return to ground, yikes.


----------



## 3putt

Ikaika said:


> Before I went to college, after leaving the military, I got a job with an electrical contractor. One of my first jobs I did, I went to the circuit breaker to turn off the power. My supervisor, laughed at me, "we only turn that off during major jobs, otherwise it's a waste of time".  Yes you can do some jobs with live wires if you know what you are doing... *Just don't be the return to ground, yikes.*


The upside is that it's a lesson that only has to be learned *once*.

Yep, it'll wake you up!


----------



## Runs like Dog

Does anyone know how to get a 2004 Ford Focus to pass inspection when the check engine light is on and the car badly overheated. Maybe a warped head? Don't really know - in any case every idiot light lit up and the temp gauge slammed into the stop pin and now the check engine light is on. All I want to do is get it to pass inspection in NC I really don't care if the car is fu^cked. As long as it turns over.


----------



## Cletus

Runs like Dog said:


> Does anyone know how to get a 2004 Ford Focus to pass inspection when the check engine light is on and the car badly overheated. Maybe a warped head? Don't really know - in any case every idiot light lit up and the temp gauge slammed into the stop pin and now the check engine light is on. All I want to do is get it to pass inspection in NC I really don't care if the car is fu^cked. As long as it turns over.


Do they use OBD-II code readers for inspections there? If so, you have one hope - 

Go to an AutoZone or whatever is the equivalent in your neighborhood. Have them clear the codes. You then have to drive the car around for "long enough" to get back to the ready state. If the code returns, you're screwed, you'll never pass emissions. If it doesn't, then you get it in ASAP to pass. 

If the event was far in the past, as in say a month ago and the car has been driven regularly since, chances are you're screwed, since if the car was going to pass self-diagnostics, it would have already done so. 

You can't clear the codes manually and pass inspection unless the car no longer sees the problem, but if it still sees the problem, it will never go into the ready state.


----------



## Runs like Dog

thank you


----------



## joe kidd

Cletus said:


> Do they use OBD-II code readers for inspections there? If so, you have one hope -
> 
> 
> 
> Go to an AutoZone or whatever is the equivalent in your neighborhood. Have them clear the codes. You then have to drive the car around for "long enough" to get back to the ready state. If the code returns, you're screwed, you'll never pass emissions. If it doesn't, then you get it in ASAP to pass.
> 
> 
> 
> If the event was far in the past, as in say a month ago and the car has been driven regularly since, chances are you're screwed, since if the car was going to pass self-diagnostics, it would have already done so.
> 
> 
> 
> You can't clear the codes manually and pass inspection unless the car no longer sees the problem, but if it still sees the problem, it will never go into the ready state.



Doesn't a battery pull do the same thing? Take it out for about 30 min and the codes should clear..... For a time


----------



## Cletus

joe kidd said:


> Doesn't a battery pull do the same thing? Take it out for about 30 min and the codes should clear..... For a time


I'm not 100% sure if all codes are stored in volatile memory. I've always cleared them with my own port scanner.


----------



## Faithful Wife

I have a nightmare story about a van that would NOT reset the codes and there is nothing that can be done about it...it leaves the van owner (a relative of mine who I was trying to help out) with a vehicle that will never have a cleared code, therefore can never pass DEQ. So I guess he will have to sell it to someone who doesn't live in a county that requires DEQ. It was a complete nightmare. Goddamn Ford.


----------



## Cletus

Faithful Wife said:


> I have a nightmare story about a van that would NOT reset the codes and there is nothing that can be done about it...it leaves the van owner (a relative of mine who I was trying to help out) with a vehicle that will never have a cleared code, therefore can never pass DEQ. So I guess he will have to sell it to someone who doesn't live in a county that requires DEQ. It was a complete nightmare. Goddamn Ford.


When the code won't go away, it means the problem hasn't gone away and the engine is out of compliance. Some things are checked as soon as the car is started, and will immediately throw a code as soon as detected. Broken oxygen sensors are like that. 

The code will go away when you fix the underlying problem, as it should be. That's the whole point of having an emissions system.


----------



## Faithful Wife

Three different dealerships (plus a couple of independent mechanics) could not get it to reset. You should see the weird instructions we were given on resetting it! It was incredible.

Here I found a copy of it online:

Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle

OBDII Monitor
Exercised	
Drive Cycle Procedure


1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset.	Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.


2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE.
Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.	

3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7°C (170° F).	
Prep for Monitor Entry	

4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000.	Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.
HEGO	

5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes.	Executes the HEGO monitor.
EVAP	

6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%	Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))
Catalyst	

7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period.	Executes the Catalyst Monitor.
EGR	

8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times.	Executes the EGR Monitor.
SEC AIR/CCM (Engine)	

9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes.	Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.
CCM (Trans)	

10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times.	Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
Misfire & Fuel Monitors	

11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times.	Allows learning for the misfire monitor.
Readiness Check	

12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13.	Determines if any monitor has not completed.
Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check	

13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.
Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed.
Proceed to step 14.	Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.
Evap Monitor "Bypass"	

14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1.


----------



## Ikaika

Faithful Wife said:


> Three different dealerships (plus a couple of independent mechanics) could not get it to reset. You should see the weird instructions we were given on resetting it! It was incredible.
> 
> 
> 
> Here I found a copy of it online:
> 
> 
> 
> Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle
> 
> 
> 
> OBDII Monitor
> 
> Exercised
> 
> Drive Cycle Procedure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset.Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE.
> 
> Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7°C (170° F).
> 
> Prep for Monitor Entry
> 
> 
> 
> 4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000.Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.
> 
> HEGO
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes.Executes the HEGO monitor.
> 
> EVAP
> 
> 
> 
> 6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))
> 
> Catalyst
> 
> 
> 
> 7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period.Executes the Catalyst Monitor.
> 
> EGR
> 
> 
> 
> 8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times.Executes the EGR Monitor.
> 
> SEC AIR/CCM (Engine)
> 
> 
> 
> 9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes.Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.
> 
> CCM (Trans)
> 
> 
> 
> 10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times.Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
> 
> Misfire & Fuel Monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times.Allows learning for the misfire monitor.
> 
> Readiness Check
> 
> 
> 
> 12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13.Determines if any monitor has not completed.
> 
> Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check
> 
> 
> 
> 13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.
> 
> Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed.
> 
> Proceed to step 14.Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.
> 
> Evap Monitor "Bypass"
> 
> 
> 
> 14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1.


----------



## Ikaika

How about this project:

http://youtu.be/yiyri0Kb9Ww

http://youtu.be/A-OfcgU_7Fs

http://youtu.be/a5BziLclt3E


----------



## Faithful Wife

Ikaika said:


>


I know, right?


----------



## Cletus

Faithful Wife said:


> I know, right?


I have had cars that required 3-4 days of routine driving under various conditions to reset the computer, but only AFTER if fixed the emissions system. What you see there is just a deterministic list of steps that are guaranteed to perform a full reset _if the underlying problem is fixed_. All of them will typically be exercised by just driving around town and on the freeway for a couple of days.

If the problem persists, no list and no amount of normal driving will reset the computer. You can try until you're blue in the face, but the system is designed to not signify emissions ready status until it's convinced everything is wrong.

It sounds like the vehicle had an underlying problem that was never repaired properly. Of course it never reset, because something was still wrong. It was working as designed, your horror notwithstanding. 

There's three basic states the car can be in - Good, bad, and indeterminate. A CEL indicates the bad state. You reset the codes and enter the indeterminate state, which only clears after all systems have self-diagnosed (hence the checklist above to force all systems to a known state). If the problem is fixed, it then transitions back to the good state or the bad state depending on what the computer sees. Some errors have to happen for 2 or 3 consecutive restarts to throw a code, some will throw as soon as you turn the key, and you'll never get to the good state because something is broken. 

Was this a case that a code was cleared, did NOT return, but the car never made it into the ready state? There was no check engine light, it had been many days of driving, and the car still wouldn't pass emissions? That would be a PITA.


----------



## Faithful Wife

If there was an underlying problem, none of the many mechanics we took it to could find it. I think what happened originally was that the battery went dead (or was pulled to do some work, I can't remember) and that made the computer mess up and then the rest is as I've stated. So at first when we couldn't reset it based on those instructions (several tries), we took it back in several times to try to find the underlying problem. We even changed a bunch of stuff out "just in case". But alas....no reset. 

If you know of a magician mechanic who might try something none of the others did, PM me.

The owner is a disabled person and the van is a wheelchair van. Making this all the more painful and life altering. He can't even get around to take it to all these mechanics or do the reset driving. He finally gave up and the van sits in his driveway (after myself and other people did our best at trying for over a year).


----------



## Pluto2

I could use some help.
I'm replacing the doorknobs and deadbolts on my front door. They are old and I can't find any company insignia. I got the thumb-latch door knob off without any problem and put the new one on. I was trying to do the same with the deadbolt. Its a single-cylinder. The inside cylinder came off by removing the two interior screws and the latching mechanism came off easily. The problem I have is the exterior cylinder seems stuck on the door. There are no screws on the exterior and nothing's left inside by the empty whole where the latch used to be. 

How the heck do I remove the exterior cylinder from the door? Hit it with a hammer? I'm afraid of damaging the door.


----------



## GusPolinski

A good drill w/ a tough bit ought to do the trick.


----------



## Pluto2

GusPolinski said:


> A good drill w/ a tough bit ought to do the trick.


Not sure what you mean. Are you suggesting I drill out the entire cylinder? Won't that live a whole in the door bigger than my replacement deadbolt?


----------



## Cletus

Pluto2 said:


> I could use some help.
> I'm replacing the doorknobs and deadbolts on my front door. They are old and I can't find any company insignia. I got the thumb-latch door knob off without any problem and put the new one on. I was trying to do the same with the deadbolt. Its a single-cylinder. The inside cylinder came off by removing the two interior screws and the latching mechanism came off easily. The problem I have is the exterior cylinder seems stuck on the door. There are no screws on the exterior and nothing's left inside by the empty whole where the latch used to be.
> 
> How the heck do I remove the exterior cylinder from the door? Hit it with a hammer? I'm afraid of damaging the door.


There's nothing holding it in place except paint or mechanical tension. Put a punch in the middle from the open side and give a couple of taps with a hammer. It should pop out. The lock (keyed portion) may in fact come out separate from the exterior skin.


----------



## GusPolinski

Pluto2 said:


> Not sure what you mean. Are you suggesting I drill out the entire cylinder? Won't that live a whole in the door bigger than my replacement deadbolt?


No no no... just drill a couple of large holes through the center of the cylinder. Doing this ought to loosen it bit, after which you could either pull it out or push it out from the other side of the door.


----------



## GusPolinski

Cletus said:


> There's nothing holding it in place except paint or mechanical tension. Put a punch in the middle from the open side and give a couple of taps with a hammer. It should pop out. The lock (keyed portion) may in fact come out separate from the exterior skin.


This should also work.


----------



## Pluto2

Thanks bunch @GusPolinski and @Cletus


----------



## Woodchuck

To clean a concrete floor, wash with TSP...Tri Sodium Phosphate....Get the real stuff, not the phony greenie stiff...Or rent a pressure washer, and a shop vac...Have one person pressure wash while the other sucks up the excess water....


----------



## GusPolinski

Pluto2 said:


> Thanks bunch GusPolinski and Cletus


You bet!

To be fair, Cletus' solution _would_ (probably) be easier... but when faced w/ a "drill or 'not' drill" scenario, I almost always go w/ "drill".


----------



## Pluto2

GusPolinski said:


> You bet!
> 
> To be fair, Cletus' solution _would_ (probably) be easier... but when faced w/ a "drill or 'not' drill" scenario, I almost always go w/ "drill".


Ha!ha!

I get it, since my D, I never shy away from hitting things with a hammer. Really, really, hard......


----------



## antechomai

No! Leave all the repair stuff to other forums. Maybe TAM should have a "suggested site" branch for this type of inquiry. TAM should stay focused.


----------



## Pluto2

antechomai said:


> No! Leave all the repair stuff to other forums. Maybe TAM should have a "suggested site" branch for this type of inquiry. TAM should stay focused.


I appreciate your POV, but part of marriage/divorce is learning how to take care of yourself and your home. I, for one, would much rather get some advice or suggestions from people I already trust here on TAM.


----------

