# Q regarding landscaping and some new sod on lawn?



## highwood (Jan 12, 2012)

we had some shrubs, etc. removed and to make the area smaller the landscaper put some new sod against the old lawn...I am not a sod expert but the sod he used definently had more yellow grass in it than our lawn so I have been watering night and day but what I am wondering is it looks kind of patchy on our lawn now with that new sod.

As well one area he put the sod in so it is higher than the lawn that is in front of it? Is this normal??


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## Betrayedone (Jan 1, 2014)

Sod should be green, not yellow. Sounds like it's old/dying.


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## highwood (Jan 12, 2012)

Yeah that is what I am wondering, the lawn has this patchy look to it as it is obvious that new sod was put in but does not match up with the old lawn.


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## Yeswecan (Jul 25, 2014)

highwood said:


> we had some shrubs, etc. removed and to make the area smaller the landscaper put some new sod against the old lawn...I am not a sod expert but the sod he used definently had more yellow grass in it than our lawn so I have been watering night and day but what I am wondering is it looks kind of patchy on our lawn now with that new sod.
> 
> As well one area he put the sod in so it is higher than the lawn that is in front of it? Is this normal??


The sod I have seen usually has some yellowing as it sits in a roll for a few days. No water, etc. However, the grass roots are still there and will come back. What it takes is water, water, water, water, water and more water until roots are established. Can take up to two weeks from my experience. Further, new grass fertilizer. Use it. Grass loves it. Oh yeah, make sure to water the new sod. Really soak it until it is squishy. The roots under neath need the water or will dry out. Once they root you are good to do. Water.


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## highwood (Jan 12, 2012)

Yeswecan said:


> The sod I have seen usually has some yellowing as it sits in a roll for a few days. No water, etc. However, the grass roots are still there and will come back. What it takes is water, water, water, water, water and more water until roots are established. Can take up to two weeks from my experience. Further, new grass fertilizer. Use it. Grass loves it. Oh yeah, make sure to water the new sod. Really soak it until it is squishy. The roots under neath need the water or will dry out. Once they root you are good to do. Water.


Yeah that is what landscaper said, I think I will give it two weeks. no sense calling him about it now, he will probably just say give it two weeks. I have been watering it morning and night!


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## Yeswecan (Jul 25, 2014)

highwood said:


> Yeah that is what landscaper said, I think I will give it two weeks. no sense calling him about it now, he will probably just say give it two weeks. I have been watering it morning and night!


It needs a lot of water. I soak mine until it is squishy. Grass loves water and cool temps. I always use starter fertilizer. Grass grows like crazy with that type of fertilizer. Once established I use standard fertilizer with weed killer. Once in spring and once in the fall.


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## SunCMars (Feb 29, 2016)

Yellowing is usually due to lack of sunlight and water.

If the root system in the sod is still healthy it will bounce back to full and green.
Unlike your wallet, empty and brown or black.


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## I shouldnthave (Apr 11, 2018)

Ladies lounge....

I thought this was going to be about a totally different kind of landscaping and bush trimming hahahahaha


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## Yeswecan (Jul 25, 2014)

I shouldnthave said:


> Ladies lounge....
> 
> I thought this was going to be about a totally different kind of landscaping and bush trimming hahahahaha


Requires water as well. Fertilizer upon request. :surprise:


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## PigglyWiggly (May 1, 2018)

I shouldnthave said:


> Ladies lounge....
> 
> I thought this was going to be about a totally different kind of landscaping and bush trimming hahahahaha


I thought the same thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## bobsmith (Oct 15, 2012)

I guess I am sort of an expert in this field, having done both yards and golf courses professionally. 

Sod (assuming fescue?) should ideally be cut AND installed in the same day. Sitting for days is NOT normal, ideal, standard, or anything but shoddy. Once sod is cut, the root system is heavily damaged and cannot survive long. Think if it as a baby with a tiny stomach. You need to keep the water going until it reestablishes which will take 3-4 weeks. We prefer frequent lighter waterings. The top must stay wet as there is no root system to pull in water from underneath. 

yellow is a sign of stressed sod. It is normal to have a 'little' yellow, but should not stand out at all. We would install a balanced fertilizer UNDER the sod (13-13-13) which promotes the roots to grow until the soil. Top applied ferts are not as ideal but better than nothing if a base fert was not applied. 

Fescue has MANY varieties, and if you are trying to tie into an older, existing lawn, will probably stand out for years. What is typical of sod farms is a variety of fine blade premium fescue, but as the plant matures, K31 or wide blade fescue becomes dominate. In short, you can tell immature vs mature fescues. The best route would be to verticut and overseed in the fall with premium fescue. Do NOT buy the cheapest seed you can find, buy the best. You can buy K31 seed and it will likely be 10% weed seed, and be fat blade junk grass, not the soft fine blade stuff you want. 

One of the marks of a GOOD sod job is the edges of the sod. When it is cut, the edge is sometimes rolled under which will cause yellowing at every seam. An experienced sod layer will know to uncurl the edge so the seems tie in and grow in nice. A good job will show ZERO seams in 2 weeks. You won't find them. Also watch for sod laying on top of sod. That will never work. Typically the cheap guys will throw it so fast that you will have an inch or more overlap. NOT good! 

The best way to fix this is trim the sod. The best tool for the job is a $1 stainless steak knife with serrations. It will cut nice. 

Do NOT listen to anyone that says to supersoak the sod for "deep watering", with less frequency. This method is perfect for established lawns which trains the grass to root deeper and create a more drought tolerance yard. However, sod has no root system and must be watered multiple x/day with lighter watering. If you walk on it and it is crispy, that is NOT good. The top soil must stay wet. 

Do NOT over fertilize!!!!!!! I see this a LOT! People think if a little is good, more it better. Nitrogen will burn up the root system. You want 1lb/k sf of N applied 3x/yr, that is IT. So for simplicity, say you have a fertilizer that is 33-0-0. That is the N-P-K ratio. first number is N at 33%. So you would apply 3lb of product per 1000sf to achieve 1lb/k. 

Do NOT fertilize in the hot season unless on sod. Temps below 80F. Fert in Summer leads to burning and diseases. We bend the water rules with sod, but once established, do NOT water in the middle of the day!!!!!! I cannot stand this. Fescue top grown needs to stay dry for 12hrs/day approx to retard fungus. When you water in the day, you can get blight, brown patch, etc. All can be avoided with proper water schedule. Water 1-4am.


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## Andy1001 (Jun 29, 2016)

highwood said:


> Yeah that is what landscaper said, I think I will give it two weeks. no sense calling him about it now, he will probably just say give it two weeks. I have been watering it morning and night!


If you have pets try and prevent them from urinating on the new sod.Nothing better to kill it than dog urine.
As I discovered.......


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